It may seem I’m bigging up Simplywines.ie, but for good reason.

After the three reds I had a few weeks ago, which I thought were brilliant, now it’s time for some bubbly, the devilishly divine Pirie non-vintage. Still from the south of Australia, albeit from the cool climate island paradise of Tasmania, a region which is now being taken rather seriously.

The Pirie sparkling blew my mind when I had it.  Others have declared this “as the greatest sparkling wine ever produced outside of champagne”.

• Eyes: Colourwise, a lot darken and more golden than many lighter bubblies.
• Nose: utterly butterly
• Mouth: No tart acidity like many champagnes at twice the price. Rather, a rewarding rich full flavoured creamy, nutty, buttery richness.
• Conclusion: gobsmacked
• Price: €25
• Availability: Simplywines.ie

Details for wine buffs

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made in the traditional way as champagne and a minimum of 18 months on lees (the dead yeast cells which have converted the sugars to alcohol and bubbles in the bottle then die – autolysis.

But they’re not done yet. Far from it. By leaving the yeast in the bottle (“sur lie”), it imparts a bready, nutty flavour.

They are later removed (disgorged), leaving the their wonderful flavours behind.

Worth repeating: gobsmacked.