Bordeaux: giving it another chance
Posted on May 29th, 2010
Saved in Sour Grapes recommends, Wine books
I’ve gone on record a number of times, expressing my disgust with Bordeaux. Not so much the wines, because they’re great but with the reverence, the prices and all the silliness that goes with the whole en primeur campaign.
However, the place is just too important to poo-poo outright, so I’ve started to re-read Oz Clarke’s Bordeaux, The Wines, the Vineyards, the Winemakers. A kind of reflection that I don’t often do.
If you’ve seen Oz and James’s Big Wine Adventure on BBC, then you’ll have got a glimpse of Oz’s knowledge, passion, enthusiasm and sense of humour and that’s the first thing that comes out of the book. It’s clear Bordeaux is the Belle Dame Sans Merci that has Oz in thrall. It’s a force running through his veins.
So, as I read through the wine styles (from classic to “garage”), the history (most of the hallowed turf was once a swamp and drained by the canny Dutch) and the people, I’m falling in love again, though I never wanted to.
Oz Clarke’s Bordeaux, The Wines, the Vineyards, the Winemakers on Amazon from £15
Yeah Lar, I’m afraid there may be a bit of Bordeaux Revisionism Syndrome going around. I think i caught it from some friends who are well enough balanced in their outlook to see past the hype to whats on offer. After many years of backing away from the su*!s, sn#~s, and sh^”s that swarm and proliferate at Vinexpo and any other event with a Bdx emphasis I have to admit to gaining a taste for the stuff. Maybe I’ll have a look at what the bould Oz has to say.
There is a love hate relationship with Bordeaux and fortunately the economic crash came at the right time since most Napa vitners who wanted to have a Napa first growth started to behave similarly to the stuck up French system. I love Bordeaux wines and actively search for the best deals on them which you can do, but its rare. I think the Asian market will soften as they understand that American wines are much more approachable earlier on than French wines, Be it as it may, the First Growths will continue to be hot on demand simply because of supply… As a friend once told me… “I love you Bordeaux, but I want to choke you sometimes…”
I think the reverence is even funnier than the pricing. Decanter magazine is the worst (though very educational) – could it *be* any more fawning?
For the record, Bordeaux is probably my favourite region. but I wouldn’t be worrying unduly about the stratospheric prices of the top chateaux. There is plenty of great stuff within financial reach for all but the most destitute. I think there is plenty of gorgeous Bordeaux between €18 and €25. Okay, maybe that’s still on the high side for many people, but still…
I barely even consider the First Growths to be wines as such, they’re luxury goods like Rolexe watches or Ming Vases – and obviously investment assets. Leave them to Roman Abramovich and the City of London boys and just enjoy drinking all that gorgeous Haut-Medoc and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru as you wait for your ship to come in.
I would have to agree with Paul. Bdx is one of my favourite regions and I think that there is great stuff even eprem at 18-20 euros a bottle.
The system is unusual but it is becoming more and more common for other regions. Burgundy, Rhone are obvious choices. Recently I saw a wine company selling high level italian white futures. So who knows where it will end.
The hype can get silly but that is all part of the fun ?
One last thing, Aubert de Villaine of DRC made an interesting point about pricing recently. He basically said there is little point in top chateaux and domaines selling their wines any cheaper because they would just be snapped up quickly by speculators who would then bank big profits by quickly selling them on at a much inflated price.
I guess where demand vastly exceeds supply, it is inherently difficult to keep a lid on prices.
He also said DRC could double its price and still sell out.
That’s a really good point – it cuts out the short term speculation. And of course, the high prices also help to pay off massive mortgages on the Dutch-reclaimed swampland (factoid alert) and ensure dividends for the institutional investors.
For the rest of us, there’s always Chile.
God bless you, Chile.
Bordeaux was my first contact with wine ( a St Emilion ) in a Chinese restaurant to be exact. Eventually i betrayed here for Burgundy of course, but that’s another comment.
There is great value in Bordeaux but the trouble is they are very focused on price, but usually very inflexible as well. i think if you are going to spend 20-25, then Bordeaux offers great value. Some of the Cru Bourgeois St Julians are outstanding for the price, but between 10-15, I think it is tough to find it. Entre Deux Mers is great for white and places like Fronsac can surprises as can Cotes de Blayes or Castillon.
However, Languedoc or Provence Cab Sab blends offer much better value. Just swap Syrah for Merlot and off you go…
Let’s not bring Chile into this though…
Vive La France ( except in the World Cup ) where i hope they are trounced.
Thanks guys,
and first up is a Chateau Beaumont ‘98 (half bottle) – giving it a bit of air.
Will let you know how I get on,
Lar
my span new copy of Oz Clarkes Bordeaux has arrived just in time for the weekend….who’s a happy bear?
At the same time the waves of hoopla and spin heading everyones way from Bdx looks as if it might almost match the steam generated here by property “experts” a few years ago and the ” new paradigm” pundits many of us heard just before the dot com thing ran out of believers.
It seems to me that the increasing frequency of these Vintages of the decade/ lifetime/ century/alltime COULD be due to the producers really getting to know how to grow grapes and make wines properly. The old methods resulted in 2 good;6 average;2 washouts every decade. With new technology and a much better understanding of what goes on at a micro level and the interplay of the various parts of the grape growing and harvesting stage and the winemaking process producers have now got rid of the washouts and all vintages are much much better. I’m begining to think that what was achieved in Bdx in 2009 had more to do with the accumulation of knowledge coupled with the aplication of technology and money than with some freak circumstances in a once off “annus miraculous”. The worldwide improvement in winemaking over the past 20 years has been huge, with the result that most wines now are at least pleasant and a bewildering choice of really good drinking wines available at prices that the Bordelais would dismiss. The benefits of reliable affordable technology has already changed many aspects of our lives and work and this trend shows no sign of slowing. I’m looking forward to a time when the effects of this dramatic uplifting in quality at all price levels works its way through the whole wine pricing system. The resultant competition can have only one effect on prices.
Or maybe it’s just the gravel banks :P enjoy the read and if you’re in Dublin, check out Searson’s in Monkstown for some good value Bordeaux with a bit of age on it.
Shameless plug here, but Chateau La Brande 2005 Cotes de Castillon is, in my humble opinion, the best value Bordeaux on the market – cheaper than Paris, according to producer at €15ish…
Sorry, meant to say I love Bordeaux wines, but haven’t bought en primeur since 2005.
Hi Gabriel,
no shame in a good plug!
Lar